Natural Dyeing with Pomegranates

Our wonderful weavers in Teotitlan del Valle often still employ 100% natural dyeing techniques. They employ a myriad of items to create beautiful dyes for their weavings.

Traditionally, in Teotitlan, women were the spinners and dyers of wool and men wove. Today all aspects of the process are shared between men and women.

Weaver Eulalia works completely in the most traditional of weaving processes, creating beautifully subtle rugs with all-natural dyes or from un-dyed yarn. She buys raw wool in the marketplace of nearby Tlacolula, and in time-honored tradition washes it in the river to dry in the sun. The carding process involves pulling a handful of wool back and forth between metal-toothed carding paddles (resembling dog brushes as much as anything else).

After carding, each fluff of yarn is clean and burr-free; from years of practice, she begins hand-pulling the wool fiber into roving before winding it on the bobbin of an old-fashioned spinning wheel. The old one, inherited from her parents, leans against the wall; she bought a new one recently with one of several En Vía microfinancing loans. Once clean and wound in skeins, the yarn is either dyed with natural dyes from plants, flowers and nuts, or combined with other un-dyed yarn of black, white and brown.

Pomegranate was introduced into Latin America in 1769 by Spanish settlers and has been used for dyeing fiber for hundreds of years.

Pomegranate surprisingly does not create any shade of red. The fruit and seeds of the fruit are not used. The peel is used, either dried or fresh, and creates varying shades of yellow. The process involves simmering the peels in hot water until all of the dyeing substance is extracted. Yarn is then dipped into the extraction and allowed to absorb the dye.

Natural dyeing is an ancient art and each weaver has special recipes and processes they use when dyeing yarn. We are proud that so many of the items our weavers make are true to the cultural and artisan heritage of Teotitlan del Valle.

Natural Dyeing-Cochineal

Some of our weavers in Teotitlan del Valle still employee the natural dying process in their weavings. They use local plants and even some insects to create beautiful and vivid wool dyes.  These methods have been handed down from generation to generation and have changed very little over the years.  In this blog and others to follow we would like to share with you some of the interesting items some of our artisans use to create a rainbow of natural dyes.

This week I would like to feature Cochineal. Cochineal is a little heard of but widely used product for creating vivid red dyes. Cochineal based dyes can be found in everything from cosmetics to Ocean Spray Ruby Red Grapefruit Juice. And yes, believe it or not, this amazing dye material is an insect. They live on cacti plants in South America and their wonderful dyeing capabilities were even known to the Aztecs and Mayas. 

 

 

 

The Cochineal produces carminic acid to deter predators and other insects. It is this acid that is responsible for the crimson colored dye the dried and crushed bodies of these insects produce. Cochineal is very expensive. The dried bugs can cost upwards of $34 per ounce. For this reason yarns died with cochineal are used in very special pieces. 

 

The process of creating dyes from naturally occurring plants and yes, even insects, is a vanishing art form. We at Manos Zapotecas are proud to do what we can to keep this tradition alive and thriving.

 

 

The Weaving Process

In the ancient village of Teotitlán del Valle near Oaxaca, Mexico, skilled artisans continue to create beautiful, handwoven crafts in culturally rich designs.

Walking into a family home in Teotitlán puts you back in time. The people live in simple, adobe houses and employ the same weaving methods and attention to detail as they did hundreds of years ago.

Family members work most of their days in the time-intensive weaving process, spinning and dying their own raw wool.  After a thorough washing, they use two carding paddles with metal teeth to separate, stretch, and soften the wool fibers. Then, they spin the wool into yarn usually on a traditional spinning wheel.

Large treadle looms and skeins of yarn in every imaginable color fill the weavers’  homes.  Natural dyes (made from products such as plants, fruits and flowers) and aniline dyes produce beautifully subtle tones that are long-lasting and colorfast.

All wool and cotton products are hand-washable with gentle care.